Climbing Le Reculet

A while back, I met with a friend of a friend, Valère, who is a first year graduate student at University of Zurich. He has lived at CERN for a while, so I wanted to draw off of his expertise and ask him about the fun things to do in the area. When he said that you could climb the 2nd highest peak in the Jura, Le Reculet, that immediately went to the top of my list of things to do.

I had to put it on hold for quite some time, because there was still a lot of snow up on the tops of the mountains. Some fellow adventurers on the internet recommended bringing snowshoes, or even crampons and ice picks! I didn’t want to mess with that. Alex and I had a tentative plan to go last weekend, but cancelled it and went to Geneva instead, when there was still too much snow.

I was talking about this with my two friends and colleagues, Nicoló and Andrea earlier this week. I noted that the snow seemed to be melting, and that I was looking forward to going. Nicoló mentioned that he had gone several times before with his friends, but hadn’t made it quite to the top yet. I offered him another chance, and I was so pleased when both he and Andrea took me up on it! Now we had a proper hiking party.

On Saturday morning, Nicolo picked every one up by 10am. We drove to Tiocan, where the trail starts, and headed out at about 10:30am. The thermometer read about 6°C when we began. For the first part of the path, you have a choice between taking a steep path, and a not-so-steep path. Personally, I would go with the not-so-steep path. It is longer, but not by too much.

Even going up the first part of the path, we were already out of breath. The gradient is quite steep, and there was still an appreciable amount of snow on the ground. This wasn’t going to be easy! I was already sweating in just a t-shirt and light sweater.

At some point, the not-so-steep path meets back up with the steep path and takes you up to a crossroads.

Le Reculet Crossroads

We stopped here for a little bit, and enjoyed some wonderful Swiss chocolate.

Le Reculet Stop

On a clear day, I am sure the view of the surrounding area and the Alps would be amazing! Unfortunately, it was cloudy.

Le Reculet View

The view up the mountain was great, at least!

Le Reculet Group Pic

We continued up, and took the path to the left. It told us that we were an hour and half from the top. Now this path was VERY steep. It might have been better in the summer, but all of the snow made it seem like climbing countless flights of stairs.

After quite a number of breaks to rest and admire the beautiful scenery, we got to a spot where it opened out and stopped for lunch. We were all exhausted, and we weren’t sure how far from the peak we were. It was looking like we might not make it to the top today. But we looked up, and saw that the end might be in sight! We couldn’t quite see the metal cross that supposedly marked the top, but we did see a pass that seemed to be the last steep ascent. So with the extra energy from lunch, we set off back up the mountain.

Le Reculet Clouds

Yes, those are clouds on the mountain. We hiked INTO the clouds. Coolest thing ever.

I’m not sure if it was lunch or the anticipation of reaching the top, but the last bit of our hike flew by. We took a narrow path along a cliff, and of course, stopped for a selfie.

Le Reculet Path Le Reculet Selfie

We made it up the last hill, and finally saw it! The cross that marks the summit!

Le Reculet Cross

I was so excited to have made it – it felt like a huge accomplishment. We had climbed a mountain!

Le Reculet Victory!

We took another chocolate break, and sat admiring the other side side of the mountain. I’m not sure how life can get much better than that!

Le Reculet View from Peak

There was quite a lot of snow at the top! I understand why we saw so many people on snowshoes and skis. Personally, I would skip the snowshoes, but there were some slopes that looked like they would be really fun to ski.

Le Reculet View from Peak 2

I took the opportunity to climb up the cross a ways. By doing that, I was actually higher than the HIGHEST peak in the Jura, Crêt de le Neige, which is actually only one meter taller than Le Reculet.

Le Reculet Cross Climbing

I don’t remember exactly, but I think we reached the top at about 2pm. It was quite cold at the top! There was a thermometer up there that read 0°C. At this point, we were very thankful for the jackets that we had neglected on our hike up. We stayed for a while, and then headed back down. We wanted to take the other path, the other that went to the right at the cross roads. The one nice thing about the snow is that we simply followed all of the footprints back!

Going down was quite steep, and quite snowy. At one point, asked the group when the last time they had rolled down a hill. No one could remember! So we all took part and rolled down some nice, snowy hills. I can’t remember the last time I laughed so much! It was a blast.

At some points, it was so steep that Andrea and I resorted to simply sitting down and sliding down the hill, sans sled. We got wet, but it was totally worth it!

On our way down, we passed by a small group of people who were jumping off the cliffs with hang gliders! That looked very fun.

We finally made it to the bottom at about 4pm, a little less than six hours after we had started. We walked about six miles and climbed about 3000ft. We were tired and wet, but very happy! That experience rivals almost any other I have ever had – it was amazing. I am so looking forward to more hikes in the future.

The City of Geneva – Part 2

Hi all! As always, thanks for checking back in on my adventures.

Last weekend, Alex and I journeyed into Geneva for an afternoon. I really enjoy traveling with Alex, because we are both content to let our feet take us wherever they want. It is a nice, relaxing way to travel, and we end up seeing some very cool things!

We drove to CERN and took the tram down to Geneva. The public transit here is very good, not very expensive, and extremely convenient. I would highly recommend using it whenever possible! I certainly would not want to have to park a car in downtown Geneva. The prices are 3 CHF for an hour pass, or 8 CHF for a day pass.

The first thing that I noticed when we got in sight of the lake was that the jet was on! I can’t even express how impressive it was. It is incredibly tall! The pictures don’t do it justice.

Geneva Jet

We made our way along the park on the southern lake shore, and we stopped to admire the iconic flower clock. I thought it was beautiful, but Alex said that there are typically more flowers…

Geneva Flower Clock

Geneva is situation around the tip of Lac Leman, and has this system of water taxis. We didn’t take one, but they look pretty fun!

Geneva Boat

There is a very narrow pier where you can walk out to where the fountain is located. Being right next to it, you really have to stretch your neck to see the top! It is so tall!

Geneva Jet Close

It was a beautiful afternoon, and there were lots of people out with their friends, family, and significant others. We got jealous of all the people carrying around ice cream cones, and had to get some for ourselves!

Our wandering feet brought us through a large public park, and then towards Old Town. We tried to go in the cathedral again, but it was closed for an upcoming concert. Still beautiful from the outside!

Geneva Cathedral Again

We made our way though another park – there are a lot of beautiful public spaces in and around Geneva. I had been through this park the first time I was in Geneva, but there was still snow in the ground. So it came as a surprise to see giant chess and checkers games going on!

IMG_3545Our last stop of the day was the junction of the Le Rhône and L’Arve rivers, just outside of Geneva. Apparently, one of the rivers is very clear and one is very silty, so it is very interesting to see them come together. We didn’t see any unusual distinction, so it must not have been the correct time of year. But still a very nice, and a great view of some beautiful architecture!

Geneva River Junction

This is what you can sometimes see.

At that point, it was getting late so we headed back to the tram station. But it was a lovely, relaxing afternoon. Geneva is truly a beautiful city. Even after a second trip, I would really like to go back!

French Cuisine in Lyon

This is a very important topic in France, so I figured it deserved its own post!


French Restaurant Basics

Before jumping into the delicious foods we ate, I’ll briefly mention how restaurants work in France, since it is very different than in the United States.

First of all, lunch is served noon-2pm, and dinner starts some time after 7pm. Restaurants aren’t usually open outside of these times, so plan accordingly. Before the meal begins, you traditionally order an ‘apéritif‘ or ‘apéro’, which is an alcoholic beverage to stimulate your appetite (though it can also mean a small pre-meal snack).

Then, most people will order the ‘menu’, which consists of 2+ courses, depending on how fancy the restaurant is. You can usually expect 2-3 for lunch and then 3-4 for dinner. You then get to pick your courses from a list of offerings (usually 5-10 different options). You pick your entrée (appetizer), plat (main dish), and then either a cheese or dessert. Of course, you are encouraged to order wine with some or all of your courses. If that doesn’t suit your fancy, you can always order á la carte, and just have a single course.

Afterwards, you may order a digestif, which is an after dinner beverage.


The Food of Lyon

While we were there we ate at four different restaurants. Two were bakeries (for breakfast), which are abundant and delicious everywhere I have been in France. It doesn’t get much better than fresh, buttery baked goods and croissants! The third was a kabob place, which is another common sight here. It is kind of like their version of fast food. We has to resort for that for lunch the first day, because we were not aware of the limited opening hours of many other restaurants!

The other two were nice, full meals. For dinner on the first nice, we went to Le Caveau des Gourmands, which served very traditional Lyonnise dishes. We each ordered the menu (but no wine), and all had different things to eat. My entrée was a Lyonnise salad, with bacon, croutons, and a poached egg.

Lyonnise Salad

My plat was a ‘blue’ steak. Now blue is the rarest of the rare. It brings meaning to ‘walking a steak through a warm room’ and then serving it. Just how I like it, but not for everybody. Sean ordered the andouillette sausage, which is made from stomach and intestines. Though it looks good here, it smelled gross and I couldn’t bring myself to try it… The potatoes are flavored with nutmeg, with is also traditional for the region.

andouiette_sausage_with_cream_mustard_sauce_and_potato_gratin

And then I forgot to take a picture of our dessert and cheese! It was a chocolate fondant, and then a creamy white cheese with herbs.

For lunch the next day, we went to a place called Le Bouchon des Carnivores. Alex and I had onion soup for our entrée, but maybe you know it better as French onion soup! It was absolutely delicious. Sean had a dish with herring.

herring_with_balsamic_and_oil_potato_cake_topped_with_greens

My plat was called ‘meat pie’. It was basically croissant dough filled with ground meat, in red wine sauce. Delicious!

meat_pie_with_red_wine_sauce

For dessert, I had ‘caramel cream’, which turned out to be flan! I am pretty sure the whipped cream was homemade, because it was amazing.

caramel_flan_with_chocolate_dusted_whipped_cream

Overall, it was an excellent food experience! Definitely worth it to spring for some nice meals there.

The Sights of Lyon

Hi everyone! First of all, I would like to take the time to thank you for continually tuning in to my adventures. I really appreciate it!

Let me first introduce the characters of my adventure:

  • Alex is a sixth-year graduate student at the University of Minnesota who is working on the CMS project. He is graduating this spring after he finishes his thesis, which is titled something along the lines of “Measurement of Ψ* with Z to ee events”. After that, he is heading out to Silicon Valley to participate in a program which trains people with technical Ph.D.s to become data scientists, and places them with a company. (Pictured center)
  • Sean is a fourth-year graduate student at the University of Minnesota, who is also working on the CMS project. (Pictured right)
  • And then me, of course! Boy, I am pretty short. (Pictured left)

Group pic Lyon

Since it was a weekend-long trip, this post would get very long if I told you about every single detail. So I have just included the highlights! As always, I am open to any further questions!


My Favorite Sights

I loved getting to see and explore the ruins of ancient Roman amphitheaters, which were built during the first century. It is incredible to imagine the lives of people who once lived, worked, and were entertained here.

Lyon Roman Ruins 1

This is the large Amphitheater. It used to seat over 10,000 people! Also, next to it, is the smaller Odeon, which sat 3,000 people. Standing in the center, one can almost imagine what it was like to be a performer with all eyes on you.

IMG_3376

A ways away, we also got to see the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls, which is where the first Christians were martyred in Lyon in 177.

Wherever you are in the city, it is impossible to escape the gaze of the Basilica of Notre-Dame sitting up on the hill.

Lyon Basilica 1

Going inside the basilica is an experience like none other. I can honestly say that this is the most beautifully intricate building I have ever seen. I could sit inside for hours and still not absorb all there is to see.

Lyon Basilica inside

The WWI monument in the Parc de la Tête d’Or was very moving. It depicts men bearing the coffin of a deceased comrade. It was a welcome departure from other monuments that glorify acts of war.

Lyon WWI memorial

There were also walls bearing all the names of men from the Lyon area who gave their lives to the war. So many names.

IMG_3483

We spent a few hours at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon, and I wish we would have had more time. They have a wide range of sculptures, antiquities, and paintings. As someone who used to be very interested in Egypt, I was fascinated by their collection of sarcophagi and other Egyptian artifacts. We also go the chance to see some original Monets and Picassos.

Lyon Art Museum SculpturesLyon Art Museum Paintings

These were my highlights, but there is really a lot to see in Lyon! If you want to see more of my pictures, check them out on Facebook.


Travel Logistics

Thankfully, public transportation here is really top notch. I drive a car that is provided by CERN, but that means that it can’t be taken outside of the LHC ring. So our journey started with a short drive to CERN, where we parked the car and hopped on the tram (buy tickets at the tram station) which took us to Geneva’s main train station. From there, we got on the train (buy tickets ahead of time online or from the train station), which took us to Lyon in about two hours.

There are two train stations in Lyon. One is Perrache, which is the one I would recommend for tourists. It is very close to the heart of downtown, and notably less busy. The other one, Part Dieu, is in the center of the business district. This is the one that our departing train left from, and it was busier than any airport I have ever seen!

We booked out room through hostels.com. This worked out very well for us! We got an inexpensive room at Hotel Berlioz which was not extravagant, but there were clean beds and hot showers, which were just what we needed.

While we were there, we got around by walking. This is very manageable, but it is a big city and we were tired at the end of both days. If you are looking for something slightly less strenuous, there is an extensive public transit system. If you have questions about it, I would stop by the tourism office. They provided maps and suggestions of what to do.


Reflections

Lyon was a really spectacular city. I think with a little bit of planning and some determination, you can tackle it in a weekend. Of course, there will still be things you don’t have time to see, so you’ll have to choose carefully!

I would definitely recommend the basilica, Roman ruins, and art museum. There are a lot of really beautiful buildings right in the downtown and old town areas, so definitely spend some time wandering around. The park and business district on the eastern side of the city is nice, but you could probably skip it for a weekend trip (though the park might be better during the nice summer months). Some things that I didn’t get a chance to do this time around, but would look in to for a second visit, are a tour of the city’s traboules and a trip out to ruins of ancient aqueducts.

I had such a spectacular time traveling. I can’t wait for my next excursion. But I will admit, however much I love seeing, trying, and doing new things, I also really love snuggling in bed with my pajamas and reading my book!

Safety at CMS

Though you are allowed to go down and see CMS on a guided tour, you have to go through a long process to be down there for any length of time or go near to the detector. This is because it is an extremely dangerous machine in an extremely dangerous environment.

CMS has a number of very fragile pieces, including the beam line. You wouldn’t think that a steel pipe, even though it is narrow, would be in danger of being damaged, but here’s the problem: the beam of particles in the LHC is so precisely aligned, that if the beam pipe gets shifted by a millimeter or less, that can cause particle in the beam to hit the pipe, which creates a lot of stray, unwanted radiation.

CMS beam pipe

That square tube in the middle is a casing for the beam pipe. They really don’t want anyone to bump it on accident! Original picture.

In addition to being careful of the mechanical pieces, one must look out for high voltages and magnetic fields. There are voltages of over 10,000V present when CMS is turned on, which won’t necessarily kill you (but it could), but it would certainly hurt, regardless.

High Voltage

Original picture.

The 4 tesla magnetic field, when it is turned on, is enough to destroy phones, credit cards, etc. if you get too close.

And that’s only the detector itself! The collisions create lots of radiation, which contaminates the cavern. While the beam is on, it is enough to make your death extremely probable. When the beam is off, there is still residual radiation that gets absorbed by the material in the experimental cavern.

The LHC is cooled with liquid helium and nitrogen, so if there were ever a leak, you would suffocate because the liquid will turn into gas, which displaces the oxygen in the air.

That cloud on top is helium gas.

All of these dangers means that you need to be sufficiently trained to avoid or deal with them before you are allowed to work in the experimental hall. You have to take a handful of online courses going over a number of safety measures, as well as attend training sessions in person. I had to take a class to lean how to use a self-rescue mask in the case of oxygen deficiency. To pass the class, I had to put on my mask in under 40 seconds in a realistic setting inside a mock-up of the LHC tunnel. I also have to attend a full-day course on radiation safety. In the near future, I will be going to a class to learn how to operate various different kinds of fire extinguishers. Valuable life skills, right?

Yes, I got to look that dorky too.

It is not until you have passed all relevant classes that you can then obtain the necessary equipment to enter the cavern. You need a hard hat, steel-toed shoes, and your CERN ID card.

CERN outfit

Original picture.

You also need your personal dosimeter. This is a device that tracks how much radiation you have received, to make sure you haven’t gotten too high of a dose.

Dosimeter

Original picture.

Finally, you get a biometric scan, so that you can get through the security doors.

CERN eye scanner

Getting my eye scanned Original picture.

But it is quite a reward when you get to see all of it!

CMS

Original picture!

What is CMS?

Hello everyone! I am so happy that you are interested in particle detectors, and CMS in particular. If you are very new, I would recommend reading up on particle physics and the LHC first.

Otherwise, if you’re ready, we can continue!


What is a particle detector?

A particle detector, on its most basic level, is exactly what it sounds like: it is a machine designed to detect high-energy particles which pass through it. Particles are far too small to ever actually see them with our eyes, so we need to use machines to alert us to their presence. The particles pass through material in the detector and interact with it. We then can observe the changes of the detector material, which gives us information about the particle itself.

The materials used in these detectors varies widely, because different materials interact differently with different particles and so can tell us what type of particle is passing through. Some detectors use gas, while others use liquids. Crystals (below, bottom) and semi-conductors (below, top) are also common materials.

CDMS detectorsECAL crystals

These materials can also be used in a number of different ways in order to tell us different things about the particles. For example, calorimeters can tell us the energy of a particle while trackers are better at telling us the position.

Due to all these differences, it is very important to select the proper type of particle detector in order to achieve the goals of your experiment. Many projects may use multiple types within one experiment.

There are some detectors that are small, basic, and cheap enough to build in your own home! There are others that are small, but very precise. There are also some the size of houses, while still others are miles long (like the IceCube project, pictured below).


What is CMS?

CMS, which stands for Compact Muon Solenoid (I’ll explain the name in a bit), is one of the four main particle detectors which runs at the LHC. The other are ATLAS, LHCb, and ALICE.

What does it do?

I have often heard the purpose of CMS compared to smashing a watch. Imagine you have a watch, and you would like to know how it works. First, you would likely observe the watch an see how it behaves over time. Then you might make predictions about how the watch will continue to act in the future. This is what theoretical physicists do. But if you really want to find out about how the watch works at the deepest level, you can shatter the watch and then examine the pieces that come out. By examining the pieces and seeing how they might have fit together, you can deduce how it works.

CMS does much the same thing, except that instead of watches, it uses particles. It detects all of the particles that come out of collisions at the LHC, so that we can learn about the fundamental constituents of the universe.

Some scientists don’t like that analogy, because we are really more interested in what the pieces of the watch can (and do) combine to make. One physicist puts it, “It is more as though we smash watches together in hopes that a cellphone will appear out of the collision energy.”

What does CMS mean?

So that sounds and looks like a huge machine! Why is it called compact? That is easily answered when it is compared to its sister experiment, ATLAS.

Photo credit to Piotr Traczyk.

Photo credit to Piotr Traczyk.

As I mentioned in the previous section, some detectors are better at finding specific particles. The ‘M’ in CMS stands for muon, which is a type of particle that CMS is particularly good at finding.

Finally, the ‘S’ in CMS stands for solenoid, which is a particular type of magnet. Now this magnet is truly ridiculous. It is the largest super conducting magnet ever built, and weighs over 12,000 tonnes. It operates at a temperature that is one degree warmer than outer space, and produces a magnetic field of 4 Tesla, which is 100,000 times stronger than the earth’s magnetic field. It has to be built strong enough so that its own magnetic field does not rip it apart, so it contains almost twice as much iron as the Eiffel Tower!

The magnetic field curves the path of the particles that pass through it, and has a stronger effect on particles with more momentum. So based on the curvature of the particle’s path, we can deduce the particle’s momentum.

How was it built?

Construction of CMS actually began back in 1998, and it was ‘finished’ in 2008. Of course upgrades of the detector will never really be finished, so it is still under construction now, in a sense. The whole thing is 70 feet long and 52 feet tall. It weighs almost 14,000 tons! Over 3,000 scientists from about 200 institutions in 39 different countries collaborated to design and construct it.

Note the person in the bottom center, for scale.

One of the most difficult and expensive parts of the project was digging a cavern in the mountainside, so that CMS could be placed underground. Once the cavern had been built, CMS was lowered 300ft in to the ground, piece by piece.

The project cost was around $1 billion dollars. Now that sounds like a lot, but let’s put it in perspective: you could build two of these detectors for the same amount that the U.S. spends on one B-2 stealth bomber.

The layers of CMS

CMS is kind of like an onion – there are lots of layers! The goal is for no particle to pass through this series of layers without being detected. Since different detectors are good at seeing different things, many different layers are needed. They are, from the inside out: the tracker, electromagnetic calorimeter, hadronic calorimeter, and muon system. A schematic can be seen below. There are a large number of other, smaller subdetectors, but these are the main ones.

Tracker:

  • Material: Silicon pixels and strips
  • Purpose: Precisely reconstruct the tracks of muons, electrons, and charged hadrons

Electromagnetic Calorimeter:

  • Material: Lead tungstate crystals
  • Purpose: Measure the energy of electrons and photons

Hadronic Calorimeter:

  • Material: Brass, steel, and scintillating plastic
  • Purpose: Measure the energy of hadrons
  • Fun fact: Much of the brass used in this detector comes from old Russian artillery shells

Muon System:

  • Material: Metal tubes, filled with gas
  • Purpose: Track and measure the energy of muons

So here’s the tricky part: getting all of it hooked up! I have found that it is difficult to determine just how many cables went in to CMS. The best estimate that I can come up with comes from a technician who worked on the cabling of the muon system, which I am going to say is about one fifth of the whole detector. He calculated that there are approximately 1400 kilometers of cables in that section. That means that there are about 7500 kilometers, or approximately 4500 miles, of cables in the detector! When you see things like the picture below, you start to believe it…

Cables

You may notice that all these cables are held together with zip ties. Some quick math will tell us that a zip tie is placed about once every 30 centimeters (1 foot), but that it usually holds more than one cable. We can say this averages to one zip tie for every meter of cable. This leads to the realization that there must be around 7.5 million zip ties in the experiment! I once heard it said that the person who had made the single largest contribution to physics was the person who invented zip ties. Now I am starting to believe it!

How do you deal with all that data?

Particles collide in the center of CMS 40 million times per second. This means that the electronics on the detectors have to be able to read out data once every 25 nanosecond (or 25 billionths of a second). That’s fast! Getting everything to work so quickly and so precisely is quite the challenge.

Usually, there is actually more than one collision at a time since it is actually bunches of protons being accelerated towards one another. So there are typically around 600 million ‘events’ happening per second. The raw data for one event is about one megabyte, so that comes out to be around 600 terabytes of data that the electronics have to read out every single second.

However much we would like to be able to save all of that data, it just isn’t possible. To cut down on the volume we use something called a trigger, which is basically a process which tells us which events are interesting enough to keep and analyze and which are not.

This process actually happens twice. The first time, the data is cut down from the 600 million events per second that the detectors pick up, to around 100,000 events per second that are actually reconstructed. Then, more advanced algorithms are used to pick out 100-200 interesting events per second. These events are then written to servers at the CERN Data Centre at a rate of 1 gigabyte per second.

All of this amounts to about 5 petabytes of data a year. To analyze all this data, a worldwide computing network is used, and then the data can be accessed by scientists all over the world.


So that’s about it! If you have any further questions, please let me know!

The City of Geneva – Part 1

Last weekend, we spent a few hours in Geneva on Saturday afternoon. Geneva has a lot to offer, and that’s why this post is titled ‘Part 1’! We barely scratched the surface, so I know we will be going back.

We got there and parked in an underground parking lot very close to the lake. That was nerve-wracking. Cars here are much smaller on average. That means that the roads are very narrow, and the parking spots are tiny. I wasn’t good at parking to begin with, and now I have to do it in a manual?? I just usually make sure to park faaaaar away from everyone else…

But we got out of the car and made our way towards Old Town. It is a similar concept to Old Town in Annecy – older buildings, winding streets, surrounded by Geneva’s original wall that defended from invaders.

Geneva Old Town

One of the main attractions in Old Town is St. Peter’s cathedral, so that was our first stop.

Geneva Cathedral

Geneva Cathedral Stained Glass

The cathedral was built between 1160 – 1252. The interior has been restored a number of times, but some original things remain – like the pulpit.

Geneva Cathedral Pulpit

Geneva was the center of the religious movement called the Reformation, while it was going on during 1517-1648. The Reformation represented the divergence of Protestantism with the Roman Catholic Church. Behind Martin Luther, John Calvin is probably one of the most well-recognized leaders of this movement, and his chair is on display in the church.

Geneva Calvin's Chair

The main body of the cathedral is free for everyone to visit, but you can also climb their towers for the small fee of 5 Swiss Francs (CHF). The towers are very narrow, and very tall. That means stairs all the way up! And they were just the most narrow stairs you have ever seen!! They were so narrow that there was a stoplight at the top that told you when you could go, because two people would not be able to pass each other!

Geneva Cathedral Stoplight

I learned from my professor that the stairs always curve upwards to the right, so that you can defend yourself with you sword hand as you are going up the stairs. Who knew?

Geneva Cathedral Stairs

On the way, we got to see the bells of the tower. There were five of them, and some were impressively large! They were behind bars though, and didn’t make for any good pictures.

Up on the higher tiers of the towers, we were treated to 360° views of the city of Geneva and the lake. It was quite beautiful!

Geneva Cathedral View

The steeples of the church were also very impressive. I learned that nothing in Geneva is allowed to be built taller than the cathedral. It’s tall, but not THAT tall, so you won’t find any skyscrapers in Geneva.

Geneva Cathedral Steeple

Geneva Cathedral Steeple 2

The church was actually built on the site of another church, which was built in the 6th century. So beneath the church, you can actually visit the archaeological site, and see some of the old church. We didn’t have time for that, so it’ll have to be next time!

Nearby to the cathedral was some artwork depicting the history of Geneva, as well as some ancient cannons.

Geneva Artwork Geneva Cannon

After that, we made our way to a monument dedicated to the history of the Reformation. Lots of statues of the leaders, quotes and paragraphs describing important events. To me, it just looked like a fun thing to climb on!

Geneva Reformation Wall Geneva Me with Statues

It was a chilly afternoon, so stopped at a cafe for some vin chaud, in order to warm ourselves up. After that, we decided to take the long way back to the car, and walked through parts of downtown Geneva. We stopped off in one store that really caught our attention, because they had “perpetual motion” devices in the window. As physicists, we couldn’t pass that up.

The store was very much like a combination of a museum and art studio, except that everything was for sale! They had navigational devices from centuries ago, one of the first cameras used to take pictures of the alps, disks covered in watch parts that floated in mid-air, etc. The most expensive item I took note of was 70,000 CHF! But the salesman challenged us to figure out how the devices worked, which was a good time. Very cool place!

We continued on through downtown Geneva, which is probably one of the most up-scale places I have ever been. Any luxury item or high fashion brand that you can imagine was present. Gucci, Michael Kors, Doir, Rolex, etc. Gems the size of your eyeballs sparkled in the windows. As my professor noted, “If there is no price tag, you can’t afford it.” Most of the stores had body guards just inside the doors. The juxtaposition of the Old Town and the modern downtown area was very interesting.

And that concluded our trip! There is still so many places I’d like to go in Geneva, like the UN, the Reformation museum, the Red Cross museum, and the natural history museum. It will definitely be worth another trip!

My Europe Reading List

While I am here in Europe, I have been doing a lot of reading in my down time. I have read some truly wonderful books, and wanted to spread the word. I’ll give a vague summary, so as not to give anything away, as well as my recommendations. So here they are, in chronological order:


Never Let Me Go, Kazuo Ishiguro, 2005

Genre: Dystopian, Brushes the edge of science fiction

Set in the near future, this is a story about a group of friends coming to terms with their own unique reality that has already been laid out for them. It is technically classified as science fiction, but it is more a coming-of-age novel which tackles aspects of the human condition. Very good, would recommend to nearly all readers over the age of 13 or so.


The Stars, Like Dust, Isaac Asimov, 1951

Genre: Fairly tame science fiction

A prequel to the Foundation series. If you have read those, then read this one! Apparently it is not as good as the others, but I still liked it. Doesn’t really resolve any major conflicts in the Foundation universe, but an interesting read nonetheless. If you haven’t read the Foundation series, you should! They are very solidly in the realm of science fiction, being set in the far future when mankind has expanded throughout the galaxy. Very well written, and an excellent story. Highly recommended for anyone, as long as you can handle a little space travel. Great for teenagers!


Left Hand of Darkness, Ursula K. Le Guin, 1969

Genre: Pretty hardcore science fiction

This one was good, but not my favorite. Set on a distant planet in the far future, it is really more of a political novel than anything else. If you love science fiction and immersing yourself in different, complex cultures, then go for it! If not, then there are better things for you to read.


The Hobbit, J. R. R. Tolkien, 1937

Genre: Fantasy, Adventure

A classic. I wanted to re-read it after seeing all of the movies. Some people complained that they modified the story too heavily from the book, but I thought they did a good job of staying true to the overall feeling and tone of the book, while adding some elements to make the adaptation to the modern screen work well. But the book is still an excellent tale of epic adventure and bravery. If you haven’t read it, regardless of whether or not you have seen the movies, I would recommend it. This is another one that is a great read for middle and high schoolers.


Speed of Dark, Elizabeth Moon, 2002

Genre: Sort of science fiction?

Not what I was expecting when I picked it up, but I really enjoyed it. Technically science fiction, but it is really more about austism and how society views it. This book lends some much-needed perspective to the issue. I think everyone should read this novel. I recommend it whole-heartedly.


The Alchemist, Paulo Coelho, 1988

Genre: Fiction

I’ll admit, this one was a little different – but I loved it. An inspiring story that reminds us all to seek out and pursue our own destiny, no matter the cost. Very short, quick read. I liked it so much I am considering reading it again, and I am sure I will get even more out of it the second time. Highly recommended!


Spin, Robert Charles Wilson, 2005

Genre: Science fiction

I don’t want to say much about this one in case I give it away. I have never read a book quite like this one. It is set on Earth in the near future, and humanity has to deal with its imminent demise. There was enough plausible science to keep me very interested, and the way the book is written kept me reading late in to the night, too eager to find out what would happen next. As long as you can deal with a little bit of ‘science’, I would highly recommend this one. Really, really good.


Childhood’s End, Arthur C. Clarke, 1953

Genre: Science fiction

I was hesitant about this one at first, because it started off a little slow. It starts off as an alien invasion story, which is a well-worn theme in science fiction by this point. Over the course of the book, things really picked up. I thought that there were some very powerful moments towards the end that really make you think about the potential mortality of humankind. Not my favorite of ones that I’ve read here, but still very good!


Blindsight, Peter Watts, 2006

Genre: Hardcore science fiction

There are some books where you don’t know what exactly is going on, but you are anxious to keep reading because you know that the answers will become clear. I kept waiting for the answers to become clear in this book, but they never did. Honestly, there were many passages that I had to read several times and still couldn’t quite figure out what had happened. The book does raise some very interesting questions about what it means to be sentient and why we have evolved to be so (and at what cost?), but I still don’t quite think it is worth it. I give this one a solid “Meh”.


A Collection of Essays, George Orwell, 1954

Genre: Essays

This one was…long. Not that the book itself was long, but it took a long time for me to get through it all. The writing style is just foreign enough and just out-dated enough that it took me a while to process what he was trying to say at times. That being said, I enjoyed some of the essays very much. Some were boring, but there were also some gems that were either comical or moving. He has some interesting things to say about the Spanish Civil War, Mahatma Gandhi, and vulgar postcards. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it, except to a literature fan.


A Ph.D. is Not Enough: A Guide to Survival in Science, Peter J. Feibelman, 2011

Genre: Non-fiction?

This book offers some helpful advice to those thinking about pursuing a career in physics. Though aimed at senior graduate students, I think it could be helpful to a physics student of any age. Though most of what is covered is common sense, it serves as an excellent reminder of what is really important.

Raclette – A (delicious) Swiss tradition

Last Thursday night, a colleague invited us over to her house to experience a very traditional Swiss meal called raclette. I had never heard of such a thing before, and so I am assuming that many of you have not either!

Raclette is technically a type of cheese. It is fairly mild, and the flavor actually reminds me a little bit of cheese curds. It is a firm (but not hard) cheese that comes from cows.

Now the dish called raclette gets its name since it uses that specific type of cheese. You start with a potato – but not a big russet potato like we have in the US. It’s a smaller, yellow potato, and the texture is similar to red potatoes. So you smash or cut the potato on your plate. While you have been doing this, the top part of a wheel of raclette cheese is being melted by some sort of heating element.

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Me, waiting patiently for my turn!

Raclette 1

A close up of the heating element.

After a sufficient amount of time, the top of the cheese begins to barely get brown. That is your cue to move the cheese and tilt it so that you can scrape the melted cheese off of the wheel and on to your potato. Then it is the next person’s turn. More than one serving is traditional!

Raclette 3

Sufficiently brown!

Raclette 2

My prepared potato!

This dish is typically served with dried meats and gherkins, both of which we had! White wine is the only acceptable beverage to accompany this dish. The story is that anything else will gum up your digestion, since it will cause the cheese to harden in your stomach.

Such a nice warm meal seems perfect for the cold winter months, but apparently it is more traditionally served in the summer. Farmers would ask their friends, family, and neighbors to come out and help them for the day. Then they would of course feed their guests, and raclette is a nice meal for a large group setting like that.

It was a truly delicious meal! I would be lying if I said I didn’t feel a little greasy afterwards, but it was worth it. And we had some great company! A large part of the Minnesota CERN collaboration was present. We don’t photograph very well… and some even avoided being in the picture! Not picture are Nicole (the hostess) and Professor Roger Rusack (the picture-taker).

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Left to right: Gideon (Nicole’s husband), Shervin (UMN post-doc), me, Sean (UMN grad student), Jeremy (UMN professor)

A Day in Annecy

This past Sunday (now over a week ago), Sean and I made a trip to Annecy, France. Everyone we asked was very fond of Annecy, and they told us that it would make an excellent day trip. We often heard it described a quaint, French town. It did not disappoint!

We got on a bus to Geneva at about 7:15am. I was very surprised when we drove right by the United Nations! Call me ignorant, but I had no idea they were in Geneva. We’ll definitely have to go for a tour! Once in Geneva, we met up with our ride, who we found using a ride share website. This was definitely the way to go, since it was a third of the price and took half as long as the bus to Annecy. It was an hour drive, so we got dropped off in Annecy at about 9am.

When we got there, we went straight to the tourism office. That is usually your best bet when entering a new area here. Almost every town has one. Unfortunately, the office is Annecy is closed on Sundays. Thankfully, there were maps located in various locations around the town, so we were still able to pick out the local attractions.

Map

So first, we set off across the lakefront, towards the Imperial Palace. Looking back at the main part of Annecy, we were treated to some lovely views.

Annecy lakeview

The town is apparently known for its population of swans. In the summer. In the spring and summer, you can walk out on to an artificial island created especially for these majestic birds. Even in the winter, they still hang around!

Annecy swan

As we were walking, I noted the number of runners we encountered. Even though it was snowing, and quite cold, a large number of people were still out running or walking. This has actually been the case everywhere I have been in France so far – people seem very active on the whole. And there are so many dogs! Lots of people walk their dogs without a leash, and all the dogs are really friendly. One time, I even saw a man’s dog carrying his owner’s phone in his mouth while the phone was playing music. I definitely did a double-take there.

We continued walking, and came to a public park area. I am sure it would be beautiful in the spring and summer. There was what looked to be a fairly extensive garden, a park, a restaurant, and even an aviary!

Annecy Apiary

The apiary. There was also a fenced in region with ducks, geese, and other birds, but I couldn’t get a good picture of it.

Annecy trail

The public walking area along the lake.

It looked as though this area also serves as a beach in the summer. The water was clear, the bottom was sandy, and there were large pillars that looked like a slide and a diving platform out in the water.

Annecy swimming

Then we came to the Imperial Palace. What a building! It is enormous, and beautifully built. We learned that it was actually a hotel. Can you imagine staying here?

Annecy Imperial Palace

After ample admiration, we walked back along the lakefront and into what is called ‘Old Town’. It is differentiated by its narrow, cobblestone stone streets and different architectural style.

Annecy Island Palace

I learned later that there are a number of notable buildings in Old Town, and that Annecy has a long and fascinating history. The one in the middle of the above picture is a picture of the Palais de l’Isle. It was built in the 12th century, and served as administrative headquarters, a mint, and finally as a jail through the middle ages. It is now a museum!

Old Town was very memorable for me. I was so absorbed in what I was seeing that I forgot to take pictures! It had a very small town feel. I was particularly impressed with all of the ironwork – fences, windows, balconies, etc.

We walked through the market, which happens every Sunday morning. The smells of dried meats, cheeses, and fresh bread came from various shops. My favorites were the bakeries. Their selection is amazing, and it is all so fresh! One item that really struck me was the enormous meringues, pictured on the top shelf, below.

Bakery window Annecy

Then we wandered through the streets a bit more, and took some winding turns…

Annecy Staircase

…and ended up in front of the city’s Chateau! (Or castle). They informed us that they were closed between 12 and 2pm, and that we should come back later. So we decided to walk towards the church we could see up on the hill.

Annecy Church Hill

So first we took a wrong turn. Then…. we took yet another wrong turn! We ended up on the opposite side of the church’s wall.

Annecy Church wall

This turned out to be a happy accident. Behind the church, we stumbled upon the trail head for a number of different trials going up in to the mountains. We still had plenty of time before the chateau would close, so we decided to go for it. We had no idea what we were in store for…

Annecy view

We stopped for lunch so we could continue to admire the view, and then continued up. We finally got to a place where the snow seemed too deep for our hiking boots to handle. Not wanting to end up with wet feet, we turned around. To the best of our calculations, we gained almost 1,000 feet in altitude!

We finally found the entrance to the church after continuing to follow the wall. What a beautiful building! It is called La Basilique de la Visitation (the Visitation Basilica), and was built in the early 1900’s.

Annecy Church

We saw some nuns working outside, so it was obviously still very much in use. Unfortunately, it seemed that no one spoke English, so we didn’t figure out if we could go inside. Maybe next time!

We then walked down to go back to the Chateau (or Castle). Construction began in the 12th century, and continued through the 17th. It was the home of the Counts of Geneva. It is a sprawling property – I can’t imagine anybody ever being able to fill the whole space! It now serves as a museum. There was art, both old and new, as well as exhibits on the history of Annecy and the lake.

Annecy Chateau

At this point, we were exhausted. We had been walking around all day and our legs would like a break. We looked in to a restaurant recommended to us by an employee at the chateau, but it was not open. Everything happens later here, especially dinner. So most dinner places do not even open until 7pm. One place that was open was a creperie! We decided that this type of traditional, French food sounded delicious, so we went inside.

We were very pleased to find that they spoke English, and that they even had some spare English menus! The menu was extensive, and it was very difficult to decide what to get. If this list isn’t tempting, I don’t know what is…

Annecy Savory Menu

Annecy Sweet Crepes

Even though I wanted to only order dessert crepes, my better judgement told me I should get a savory one as well. So I decided on the ‘Complete Lard Oignons” (egg, cheese, bacon, onions, tomatoes) and the ‘Ballon d’Alsace’ (pear sorbet, hot fudge, pear brandy, and set one fire!). They were both delicious!

Annecy Savory Crepe 2

Annecy Sweet Crepe 2

At that point, it was almost time to leave, so we wandered around the more modern, downtown area for a little bit, and then headed to where we were supposed to meet our ride. We were so tired, and very happy to get home. I slept very soundly that night!

Overall, it was a wonderful experience! Annecy is a very nice little town, with a lot to offer. I think I would like to go back in the spring or summer, so that I can see the gardens. Maybe even take another hike! But this was just the tip of the iceberg, so I am very excited for our next weekend excursion!